What Do the Olsen Twins and Greek Fisherman Have in Common? This It-Sandal

Introduced centuries ago for European seamen who needed quick-draining shoes while on deck, the sandals have, in more recent decades, been appropriated by kindergartners, especially in sparkly jellied versions. Many millennials fondly recall this preschool style. Those memories, suggests Telsha Anderson, add to the shoes’ modern-day appeal. “They’re nostalgic,” said the 27-year-old founder of New York boutique T.A. Their echoes of a protected childhood make them feel dependable—reassuring after over a year of uncertainty.

This season, savvy urbanites are sporting endearingly clunky fisherman sandals with billowing dresses and crisp trousers. The shoe’s vogue arguably came via the Row, the minimalist New York brand founded by Mary-Kate and

Ashley Olsen.

Released in 2019, the label’s perpetually sold-out $990 Gaia flats come with a clompy sole that telegraphs a knowing, winky chic—vs. earnest seaside practicality. Ms. Anderson posits that the Gaia’s popularity among the fashion-savvy (she owns a pair in black) is what helped the “out of the box” style take off. “People trust the Row,” she said.

This season, New York brand Gabriela Hearst, Florida-based label Emme Parsons and Spanish brand Hereu all offer polished, practical takes. Hereu uses a smooth, sleek leather so the sandals “don’t look too rustic,” said co-founder Albert Escribano. This helps kick this classic seafaring silhouette “out of context” to make it “urban…modern and luxurious.”

Comfort contributes to the shoes’ relevance. Women reacquainting themselves with a social life want a chic upgrade from homely, at-home slip-ons without sacrificing a spongy footbed. Leicester, U.K.-based artist Nazia Govaria, 38, traded her lockdown

Crocs

and velcro-strap Tevas for a “more refined” fisherman flat.

But the line between cosmopolitan and child (or cod-catcher) is a fine one to tread. Avoid pairing the sandals with girlish frills and instead style them with understated pieces like wide-legged trousers and a clean white blouse, or even some smart tailoring. This will firmly ground them in the grown-up realm. Ms. Govaria wears hers with A-line cotton maxi dresses and oversize trench coats. Kate Johnson, 43, who works in accounting in Omaha, Neb., pairs hers with neutral-colored cropped pants for the office. She considers the closed toe work-appropriate: “They don’t show too much feet.”

Some advocates encourage the socks-and-sandals look, elsewhere considered gauche. Mr. Escribano, who lives in Barcelona, thinks cotton ankle socks offer a city-ready sensibility; Ms. Johnson adds a pair for warmth on sunless days. London publicist Florence Laud-Anderson wears socks with them too, which ups the coverage these substantial shoes already offer. Ms. Laud-Anderson recommends the sandals to crowd-phobic commuters seeking protection. “Someone could drop a hot latte on your foot,” she said. “It’s a jungle out there.”

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